I just spent two days canoeing on Maligne Lake in Jasper National Park. Anne and I paddled 22km down (and back!) the length of the longest, deepest alpine lake in Canada. It was absolutely indescribable, yet I will still attempt to . . .
Imagine driving to the lake on a 40+km purpose built, scenic road, reknowned for its wildlife viewing. A road subject to mudslides which threatened our trip actually even getting underway. On the way up, we see a black bear camped out in front of buffaloberry bush adjacent to the road. I'm absolutely in love with watching black bears eat! I adore how they wrap their paws around a branch and pull it toward their gaping mouth. Then they eat both the berries and leaves indiscriminately in one fell swoop. Apparently it doesn't affect them that the berries taste very much like soap.
Once at the lake, we load up the canoe on the characteristically morning, glassy lake. Glassy and clean, yet the depth is hidden from view because of the sheer volume of rock flour held in the water. Shoving off, we quickly exit Home Bay and pass First Island. It's slightly overcast and the sun lies in wait behind the mountain until nearly 10am. When it does come out, the water glows pale green and the world suddenly radiates warmth with its touch. We remove jackets and layer on the sunscreen in preparation for a long, warm day basking in this little piece of paradisical creation.
Just before 10am, the first tour boat makes its appearance. They considerately slow down when passing canoeists and kayakers, reducing the size of the swells they must endure. The tour boats cruise by every 5-15min, breaking the silence broken before only by the call of loons across the lake; an eagle's cry from his perch atop a nearby tree; a paddle splash as someone gets lazy with their stroke; a frantic cry as a horsefly is seen hovering to find a place to bite. For the next four hours we are rarely without the sound of these big boats (the only ones allowed on the lake with gas motors). Electric motors only are permitted by the public, and the tour boats may only go to just beyond Sampson's Narrows and Spirit Island, leaving the last 6.5km motorboat free (though the sound accompanies you the entire time).
Once you reach the narrows, it seems the colour of the water intensifies to an almost radioactive looking phosporescent green. There are many waterfalls formed from glacial meltwater and new glaciers keep coming into view.
We reach the campsite, which is impacted to say the least. :(
An idyllic spot, marred by the lack of set trails between tent pads, outhouse and cooking area. Consequently, people walk everywhere (myself included) and there is sparse vegetation amongst the trees. Several mule deer walk through the campsite, not too nonchalantly, rather, it seems (to me), in search of scraps left by humans.
On the way back the next day, Anne and I enjoyed nearly 20min of time alone at Spirit Island, admiring the views, uninterrupted by tour boats. A much cherished time, which will never be forgotten. The entire trip will live vividly on in this steadily shrinking memory bank. How could such scenes of beauty ever be erased from memory. I feel so blessed to live in a place of outstanding natural beauty such as Jasper. Can we keep it outstanding?
The controversial Tangle Ridge development is one example of how we are not:
http://glacierdiscoverywalkjasper.com/
http://www.noglacierdiscoverywalk.ca/
Is the Maligne area a pristine wilderness? Comparitive to other places in the world, most definitely! Could it be improved? Yes! Make the tour company use electric motors: reducing noise pollution; causing the boats to slow down and giving tourists the chance to enjoy the sights, sounds and smells more fully; and allowing self propelled boaters to enjoy these same things! And, a simple task of making the trails at Coronet campsite more well defined, reducing impact on vegetation surrounding it.
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